More from King John’s Version:
Developing a pre-ride custom and procedure can help you by having everything all lined up and ready to go, it allows you to have more fun and more horse time, and it can also contribute to better safety for you and your horse.
Having your saddle and tack clean and oiled, bringing a small bottle of fly spray along, deciding whether to bring gloves and a coat, and calculating when to head back to the barn can all add up to interference and delays or to smooth, enjoyable riding; not having things lined up can keep you back at the barn instead of out on the trail.
Remembering to keep in mind the kind of physical shape your horse is in will help both you and him, also. Is he fat from standing around all winter or did you have him out yesterday and now today he’s tired? Or is he young and full of P & V, feeling good and frisky because of the cool air? Does he have loose shoes or a bruise on his sole? (1)
Oh, and keeping the local pizza shop’s phone number in your Contact List is helpful, because in the reality of life, who wants to cook after cooling the horse off and putting everything away? A crockpot is helpful here, too.
Deciding where you are going to ride is fairly simple, and always remember to tell someone when you are leaving, where you are riding to, and what time you estimate you will return.
One time my sister left on Old Hellion (Foxy) and didn’t tell anyone where she was going. It was when you could still ride on the public Gamelands, and she and old Fox ended up in no less than a thick mud quagmire that had the horse up to his armpits in less than 30 seconds. They struggled for awhile, with Arlene finally dismounting and floating/crawling across the mud to the edge of solid ground. The horse continued to struggle and lunge and he really could have been in serious trouble.
Luckily, he did escape, but he was extremely exhausted and covered in thick, smelly swamp mud, as was my sister and the tack.
They both walked slowly all the way back home, over 1 ½ miles.
And boy, did she catch heck from our mother when they both arrived, in the dark and long after the sun had bid his adieu for the day.
Thinking ahead for your ride can help make things easier out on the trail, especially if you are familiar with roads or neighbors’ farms.
Getting out of the driveway can sometimes be an ordeal unto itself, since a lot of horses get about ¾ of the way and then they start up with hesitation or tricks or jigs. Using your leg to cue him onward and asking for more speed as you exit can keep things moving along. (2)
Remember when going out whether there are any road crews working or houses under construction or ATV’s charging around. You know your horse and you should be prepared for any spooks or jigs.
This is true for coming home, too, especially if you take a different route. Does your horse get prancy around cows or dogs? And is it really the cows and dogs, or is it just because he knows you’re getting close to the barn?
Be considerate of the horse when bridling and saddling him up, don’t bang the bit on his teeth but rather work with him to open his mouth, and don’t jerk the cinch up all the way in one swell-foop.
Longe the horse before climbing up into the saddle, and watch for him to start to lick his lips, clear his lungs, and drop his head, three signs he is relaxing and getting ready to go. Check for any gimps in his gait.
Allowing him to kick up or buck a little on the end of the string is always better than when you are up in the saddle.
When mounting up, try to settle onto his back lightly instead of a big, falling thump-a-lump (I really hate that, especially from larger-sized people) because he sure does feel you, and this goes directly into his back muscles.
Starting off right outside the barn, you can test the steering and brakes before you leave the driveway.
Ask the horse to move forward at a walk, then ask him to move his hips and body over, in a side-pass movement using your boot and rein, just one or two steps. Then ask for Stop, and then back up a couple of steps. Release the rein, and cue forward again. (3)
To test the brakes, ask him to speed up a little, then downshift by changing your weight and using your voice, and pick up the reins.
If he isn’t stopping, put him on a “Snail Shell” curly-cue, smaller and smaller circles to slow him down. Use his laziness against him; the smaller the circle, the harder he has to work.
Road cones are always helpful for steering and control. Find out whether you can stop the horse in among the cones and use your leg and rein for steering. You may find that he turns better one way than the other.
Watching for approaching vehicles out on the road and stopping the horse or turning him slightly toward the ditch can allow motorists to ease by you (if they are polite)* and they’ll feel better that the horse won’t jump out in front of them.
Deer breaking cover and coveys of doves are unpredictable spooks that happen on every ride, and you just have to deal with it.
Remember to wear a boot with a good heel on it, no flip-flops or open sandals, and don’t bring coats or rain slickers that swish-swish or crinkle, and never pull them out of the saddlebag to put them on up in the saddle.
I read about an experienced trail rider in Colorado one time who decided to put his rain slicker on while atop the horse, up on the side of a mountain. He came home in a body bag and the horse was seriously injured.
Think ahead and use foresight in what could happen out on the trail. Be aware of weather and sunset times, and always allow time for the horse to walk and cool off, especially if you like charging through fields and streams, like some people I know.
The snow is gone, the flowers are blooming, temperatures are up, things are turning sunny, and the trails are beckoning. Leaving you with beautiful sunsets, inviting meadows, and scenic views, all while out with your best horse buddy, to the immortal words of Roy Rogers and Dale Evans, “Happy Trails to You.”
1,2,3 : John Lyons’ “Perfect Horse”; September 2001; Volume 6, Number 9
*Ha! In western Crawford County?!